The Story Behind Piedmontese Hazelnut Ragu

When I first encountered this intriguing ragu, known locally as ragù alle nocciole, my curiosity was instantly piqued. The idea of hazelnuts taking center stage in a rich Italian sauce was unlike anything I had ever tasted, and I knew I had to recreate it. Piedmont, a stunning region nestled in the northwest of Italy, is globally celebrated for its exceptional hazelnuts, often considered among the finest in the world. It’s no surprise, then, that these aromatic nuts are not only a star ingredient in savory dishes but also foundational to some of the region’s most beloved sweets. You’ll find them in decadent treats such as luscious hazelnut chocolate spreads, delicate Baci di Dama cookies, and luxurious Baci chocolates.

While meat-based ragus have a long and storied history in Italian cuisine, evolving from slow-cooked stews designed to make tough cuts of meat tender, the concept of a vegetarian ragu is a more modern adaptation. This hazelnut version pays homage to the spirit of ragu – a deeply flavorful, slowly simmered sauce – while embracing the abundant local produce of Piedmont. Crafting this particular ragu proved to be a delightful challenge, as readily available traditional recipes for ragù alle nocciole are surprisingly scarce. This encouraged us to develop our own interpretation, drawing on classic Italian techniques and a deep appreciation for regional ingredients. The result is a recipe that we believe captures the essence of Piedmontese culinary innovation, offering a harmonious blend of earthy hazelnuts, aromatic vegetables, and a hint of red wine that creates an unforgettable sauce. We are absolutely thrilled with this rendition and are confident you will be too.

Ingredient Spotlight: What You Need to Know

Crafting the perfect Piedmontese Hazelnut Ragu begins with selecting high-quality ingredients. Here’s a closer look at the key components and why they matter:

• Hazelnuts: The undisputed star of our ragu! We recommend using whole hazelnuts with their skins on. Roasting them slightly enhances their nutty flavor and makes the skins easier to remove, though skinless hazelnuts work just as well if preferred. If your hazelnuts are already toasted, you can skip that initial step and proceed directly to pulsing them in a food processor. The texture should be coarse and crumbly, providing a delightful bite that mimics ground meat in a traditional ragu.
• Dried Porcini Mushrooms: These robust mushrooms contribute an incredible depth of umami and an earthy aroma to the sauce. Mixed dried mushrooms can also be used if porcini are unavailable. Remember to soak them in hot water for at least 10-15 minutes to rehydrate and soften them. This soaking liquid is precious – it’s full of flavor and will be used in the ragu, just be careful to avoid any grit settled at the bottom. As an alternative, fresh crimini (chestnut) mushrooms can be finely chopped and sautéed with the other vegetables to offer a similar earthy dimension.
• Passata (Tomato Puree US): A high-quality passata forms the rich base of our ragu. Known as tomato puree in the US, passata is essentially strained, uncooked tomato pulp, offering a smooth consistency and intense tomato flavor. We highly recommend brands like Mutti or Cirio, as their superior quality truly makes a difference in the final taste of your sauce. However, feel free to use your preferred brand of good quality passata or tomato puree.
• Red Wine: A crucial element for depth and complexity. Opt for a dry red wine, such as a Barbera d’Asti (a regional Piedmontese wine, fittingly!) or a Chianti. The alcohol cooks off, leaving behind a rich, fruity, and slightly acidic note that beautifully balances the earthiness of the hazelnuts and mushrooms.
• Mirepoix (Carrot, Celery, Onion): This classic aromatic base is fundamental to almost any good ragu. Finely dicing these vegetables allows them to soften and melt into the sauce, releasing their sweet and savory flavors, building the foundation of the ragu’s rich taste.
• Garlic, Bay Leaf, and Rosemary: These herbs and aromatics infuse the ragu with a warm, herbaceous, and slightly pungent character. Fresh rosemary provides a distinct piney note, while the bay leaf adds a subtle, savory undertone.
• Olive Oil: Always use a good quality extra virgin olive oil. Its fruity and peppery notes will complement and enhance the other flavors.
• Salt and Pepper: Season generously throughout the cooking process, tasting as you go, to ensure the ragu is perfectly balanced.

Step-by-Step Visual Guide to Making Hazelnut Ragu

Follow these steps closely to ensure your Piedmontese Hazelnut Ragu is nothing short of perfection. Visual aids are provided to guide you through each stage of the cooking process.

Step 1 – Prepare the Hazelnuts: Begin by toasting the whole hazelnuts in a dry pan over medium heat for a few minutes until fragrant and lightly browned. This enhances their flavor and makes the skins easier to remove. Once cooled, pulse them in a food processor until you achieve a rough, crumbly texture, akin to coarse breadcrumbs, as shown in photos 1 and 2.

Step 2 – Rehydrate Porcini: Place the dried porcini mushrooms in a small bowl and cover them with hot water. Let them soak for at least 10 minutes to rehydrate fully. Set this aside, making sure to reserve the flavorful soaking liquid (photo 3).

Step 3 – Sauté the Soffritto: In a large, heavy-bottomed pan or Dutch oven, heat 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the finely chopped carrot, celery, and onion. Sauté gently for about 10 minutes until the vegetables are soft and translucent, but ensure they don’t brown, as this can affect the sweetness of the ragu (photo 4).

Step 4 – Infuse Aromatics: Once the vegetables are tender, add the finely chopped garlic clove, the pulsed hazelnuts, bay leaf, and rosemary sprigs to the pan. Sauté for another 1-2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the garlic becomes fragrant and the hazelnuts release their aroma. Be careful not to burn the garlic (photo 5).

Step 5 – Add Mushrooms and Deglaze: Remove the rehydrated porcini mushrooms from their soaking liquid, gently squeezing out any excess water, and roughly chop them. Add the chopped porcini to the pan, along with most of their reserved soaking liquid. Pour the liquid slowly, leaving behind any grit that may have settled at the bottom. Next, pour in the red wine and bring the mixture to a simmer, allowing it to cook until the strong alcohol smell has dissipated, indicating the alcohol has cooked off and left its rich flavors behind (photo 6).